Reindeer Mug Warmer Crochet Pattern

Maybe not a very functional present, but isn´t it cute? ;)

Basic pattern mug warmer:

Using my Boshi yarn and a 7 mm hook
4 Buttons

I won´t count here, as you´ll have to adjust it to your cup (don´t worry, it won´t be hard)

Chain around your cup, add ch3
R1: dc in 4th st from hook, dc in each st., turn
R2: Ch3, dc in each st, turn

Repeat R2 until desired height, cut yarn, sew in ends

Create 2 pieces: Ch 5, Add Ch 4, tc in 5th from hook, tc each, cut yarn sew in ends.
Apply buttons and use 2 pieces to hold mug warmer together.


Reindeer-head: using brown yarn, safety eyes, fibre fill, hook 3,5

Magic circle, sc 6, start each round with ch1(chain 1), end with slst (slip st.), sc between increases (inc)
R1: inc each (12)
R2: inc every 2nd st
R4: inc 3rd
R6: inc 4th
R7: inc 5th
R8-12: sc each
R13: dec 6th
R14: dec 5th
R15: dec 4th
Apply eyes to head and start filling with fibre fill
R16: dec 3rd
R17: dec 2nd
R18: dec each, cut yarn and sew hole 

Mouth: using brown yarn (start every round with ch1, end with slst)

R1: Ch 3
      sc in 1st from hook, sc, sc 3 in last
      sc, sc 2 in last (8)
R2: sc 3, 3sc in 4th st, sc 3, 3 sc in last st (12)
R3: sc 4, 2 sc in next 2, sc 4, 2sc in next 2 (16)
R4-5: sc each
R6: dec 4th, sc last 2 (13)

fill and apply to head

Nose, using red yarn (start every round with ch1, end with slst)

Magic circle, sc 5
R1: inc each (10)
R2-3: sc each (10)
R5: dec each

apply to mouth

Ears, create 2
Using brown

R1: Ch3, sc 3, turn
R2: Ch1, sc1, inc, sc1, turn
R3: Ch1, sc each, turn
R4: Ch1, sc, dec, sc, turn
R5: Ch1, dec, sc, turn
R6: Ch1, dec

sc tight around the edge of ear to get a nice edge and a round shape, apply to head

Horns, create 2:

Using darker or lighter brown yarn

R1: Ch 5, sc in 2nd from hook, sc 2 (3), turn
R2-9: Ch1, sc each, turn
R10: Ch1, sc, hdc, dc, turn 90°
R1: sc 3 on side, turn
R2-4: sc each
R5: sc all 3 together

Now slip st on edge until you reach the middle to creat smaller part of horn (i hope you understand what i mean)
Sc 3
sc 3
Sc all 3 together.

apply to head, sew head to mug warmer, fill with hot chocolate :)

Items made from this pattern may not be sold.

Free pumkin amigurumi pattern

For coming up projects follow me on instagram: sarohsaroh

October is pumkin month, so why not crochet a super cute pumpkin amigurumi?
I did this one yesterday, I´m sorry guys, this is really not a no-sew project.

What you need:
- 3,5 mm hook
- 1 pair of safety eyes
- fibre fill
- orange, green and black yarn

I have used this yarn: (It says basics and has been bought in a German store)

Ch = chain, sc=single crochet, dc=double crochet, hdc=half double crochet, tc=triple crochet, slst=slip stitch, inc=increase, dec=decrease

Create 6 similar pieces:

R1: Ch 2
R2: Ch1, sc 2, turn
R3: Ch1, inc, inc, turn (4)
R4: Ch1, sc, inc, inc, sc, turn (6)
R5: Ch1, 1 sc in each st, turn (6)
R6: Ch1, sc 2, inc, inc, sc 2, turn (8)
R7: Ch1, 1 sc in each st, turn (8)
R8: Ch1, sc 3, inc, inc, sc 3, turn (10)
R9-10: Ch1, 1 sc in each st, turn (10)
R11: Ch1, sc 3, dec, dec, sc 3, turn (8)
R12: Ch1, 1 sc in each st, turn (8)
R13: Ch1, sc 2, dec, dec, sc 2, turn (6)
R14: Ch1, 1 sc in each st, turn (6)
R15: Ch1, sc 1, dec, dec, sc 1, turn (4)
R16: Ch1, 1 sc in each st, turn (4)
R17: Ch 1, dec, dec, turn (2)
R18: Ch 1, sc 2 (2)

Cut yarn. If you leave it a little longer you can use it to sew pieces together.

Sew pieces together like in the picture, then sew together one of remaining holes and turn the work.

Attach safety eyes where desired and stitch mouth using black yarn. Stiff with fibre fill.

Upper part (stalk??):

Using green yarn:

Magic circle, sc 6, slst (6)
R2: Ch1, 2 sc in each st, slst (12)
R3: Ch1, 1 sc, 1 hdc, 1 dc, 1hdc and 1sc in same st, repeat till end, slst (16)
R4: Now crochet only through the outter loop of each st, 1 sc in each st, slst (16)
R5: Ch 1, sc 3, dec, repeat till end, slst (12)
R6: Ch 1, 1 sc in each st, sl st (12)
Start stiffing 
R7: Ch 1, sc 2, dec, repeat, slst (8)
R8: Ch 1, 1 sc in each st, slst (8)
R9: Ch 1, sc 2, dec, repeat, sl st (6)
R10-11: Ch1, 1 sc in each st, slst (6)
R12: Ch 2, 2 dc in each st, slst (12)
R13: Ch1, sc + hdc in one st, 1 dc, 1 tc+1dc in same st, 1 hdc + 1 sc in one st, repeat till end, slst (24)

Cut yarn, sew stalk to top hole, finished!

Neuer Blog, Photobomb

Hallo zusammen :)

Wie ihr vielleicht schon wisst bin ich im Januar Mama geworden :)))

Darum habe ich nun einen Blog gestartet, um meine Erfahrungen aus Schwangerschaft und Mutterdasein mit euch zu teilen. Schaut mal vorbei! 

Dieser Schnappschuss entstand, als ich für euch das Gewächshaus fotografiert habe, welches ich den Frühling über gebaut habe, den Bericht darüber werde ich in den nächsten Tagen fertig stellen!

Noch einen schönen (bei mir hier sehr sonnigen) Tag :)

Die perfekte Malerkante

Eins vorneweg: Spart keinesfalls an der Farbe. Mit Schrecken denke ich zurück an den Tag, an dem wir unser Schlafzimmer grün streichen wollten und uns einen Ton von der billigen Eigenmarke des Baumarktes mischen ließen. Es war, als hätten wir die Wand mit Wasserfarben bemalt, ungleichmäßig und fleckig. Am Ende waren wir für eine kleine Wand (9 m²) etliche Male zurück zum Baumarkt gefahren und haben uns am ende vier Eimer der Farbe geholt. Die Wand war endlich einigermaßen gleichmäßig, Zeit um sich über die hässliche Malerkante zu ärgern.

Ich hatte schon sämtliche Tricks versucht, teures Klebeband, welches angeblich keine Farbe unterlaufen lässt, das Krepp mit Acryl abdichten und und und....
Nichts hat funktioniert. Am Ende hat mir die Person geholfen, die man viel zu selten zur Rate zieht: Meine Mutter. Von ihr bekam ich den besten Tipp und seitdem sind meine Malerkanten kein Grund mehr, sich zu ärgern.

Entschuldigt die schlechte Qualität der Fotos, aber ich wollte mit meiner Kamera nicht in die Nähe der Wandfarbe.
Wenn ihr die Möglichkeit habt, verwendet eine Laser-Wasserwaage für Streifen oder Malerkanten die - wie auf meinem Bild - nicht bis in die Ecken gehen. Was für eine geniale Erfindung! :)

Zum verwendeten Material: Wie oben bereits erwähnt, hier ist kein Platz für Geiz, billig-Farbe deckt nicht, billig-Pinsel hinterlassen ihre Borsten in der Farbe und billig-Malerkrepp kommt einem manchmal wieder entgegen, nachdem man es mühevoll angeklebt hat. Ausnahme: Ich verwende Tesa-Krepp für die Kante, klebe manchmal aber noch ein paar Streifen billig-Krepp daneben, um den Boden/ die Wand besser zu schützen, hier muss man nicht das teuerste Krepp verwenden. Ich bin oft etwas unvorsichtig mit der Walze, darum sorge ich vor ;)
Mit manchem billig-Krepp habe ich auch keine gerade Kante hinbekommen, da kann ich Tesa nur empfehlen.

Bei der Farbe habe ich mit Alpina gute Erfahrungen gemacht, bei Grün- und Rottönen sind laut Baumarktpersonal aber immer mehr Schichten nötig, was wohl an den Pigmenten liegt.
Alpina ist meistens sehr ergiebig, sodass der Preis sich meiner Meinung nach relativiert, weil man mit der günstigeren Farbe oft mehrere Schichten benötigt. (Meiner Erfahrung nach, es kann natürlich auch billige Farbe geben die gut decken, Ich habe nur noch keine gefunden).
Den "Goldrausch" von Alpina habe ich übrigends auch schon ausprobiert, es ist echt toll geworden! Wohingegen das "Linienspiel" nicht so schön geworden ist, das würde ich mir nichtmehr kaufen.

Aber zurück zur Malerkante. Ich habe also mithilfe des Lasers alle Kanten abgeklebt und bin mit dem flachen Handrücken über das Krepp gefahren, sodass es sich besser an die Raufaser legt. Hierfür sollen Gummiwalzen genial sein, welche zum Tapezieren verwendet werden.

Meine Anleitung ist nun für braun- auf - weiß, das ganze funktioniert analog für farbe- auf - farbe.

Jetzt kommt der entscheidende Schritt: Nun benötigt ihr einen Pinsel und weiße Wandfarbe (oder die Untergrundfarbe). Malt nun mit der weißen Farbe die Übergänge von Wand und Krepp an. Die weiße Farbe läuft in die kleinen Lücken zwischen Wand und Krepp, weshalb der andere Farbton nun nichtmehr unterlaufen kann. Ich streiche bewuss von der Wand nach außen zum Krepp, damit die Farbe alle Lücken füllt.

Nun ist es sehr wichtig, den richtigen Zeitpunkt zu finden! Die weiße Farbe darf nicht zu nass sein, da diese sich sonst mit dem Farbton vermischt und die Farbe fleckig wird, sie darf aber auch nicht zu trocken sein, da sie sonst beim Abziehen des Krepps splittert und wieder eine unsaubere Kante verursachen kann.

Hört sich alles kompliziert an, der Trick ist es nicht mit der weißen Farbe zu übertreiben und zu warten, bis man mit dem Finger darüber streichen kann ohne dass der Finger weiß wird.
Nun kann man wie gewohnt die Wand mit der (braunen) Farbe streichen.

Wenn man eine größere Fläche streicht, empfiehlt es sich erst die Kanten mit der (braunen) Farbe zu streichen und dann bereits das Krepp zügig abzuziehen, damit die Farbe noch nass ist und nicht splittert. Danach kann vorsichtig der Rest gestrichen werden.

Hier zeigt sich ein weiterer Vorteil der "guten" Farbe: Wenn man nur einen Anstrich benötigt, kann man das Krepp zügig abziehen und die Kante splittert nicht. Meistens sieht man erst nach dem Trocknen ob die Farbe gleichmäßig geworden ist und dann ist es sehr ärgerlich, wenn man die ganze Abklebe-Prozedur wiederholen muss.

Ihr werdet sehen, die Kante wird schnurgerade :)

Hier mein Ergebnis im Kinderzimmer:

Das süße Wandtattoo habe ich bei Etsy aus den USA bestellt, es ist wunderschön und man konnte sich alle Farben selbst aussuchen :)

Ich hoffe alles war Verständlich und ich habe euch etwas weitergeholfen :)

Free Yoshi Amigurumi Crochet Pattern

 For more diy projects please follow me on Instagram ---> sarohsaroh

So as my 10 week old´s name is Joshua I thought Yoshi would be a suitable mascot for his stroller. (We call him Joshi :))
This is my first crochet pattern, I really hope the steps are easy to follow. I think it is not really beginner level. Please excuse language mistakes, you are welcome to tell me if there are any mistakes in my pattern or if some steps are not clear.
Sorry to German readers, I have learned how to crochet with English videos and Patterns, I do not know the German expressions and according to blogger I have a lot of English speaking readers.
This pattern was created by sarohsdoityourselfblog for private use only, do not sell this pattern. The finished Amigurumi may not be sold. 
Keep away from cats, I know what I´m talking about ;)



What you need:
•    100 – 150 g lime green yarn
•    50 g white yarn
•    yellow, red and brown yarn
•    3,5 mm hook
•    needle for sewing parts
•    black and white felt for eyes (optional)
•    fibre fill or old yarn to stuff

sc= single crochet, dc= double crochet, hdc = half double crochet,  ch 1 = Chain one, slst= slip stitch, st = stitch, lp = loop, inc = increase, dec= decrease
*…* = repeat part between until end

I did the main part without sewing (eyes, head, belly, tail). I´ll restart counting with every part to make counting easier.
(The numbers are just for orientation, it just has to be approximately this amount of stitches)
Only skip joining stches when you are told to do so.

Body (starting with eyes):

Create two parts that will be crocheted together.
2-times:
Magic circle, 6sc, slst to join round
R1: Ch1,*sc, inc in every 2nd st* slst to join (9)
R2: Ch1, *2sc,inc,2sc* slst to join (12)
R3: Ch1, 1sc in every st, slst to join (12)

Sew together through 4 stitches of each.
Start between sewn-together parts, picking up yarn through 1 lp, Ch1
(you can either cut and sew each time or do slpstches instead of sewing, without cutting the yarn and just continue with it)
R1 1sc in each stitch, using sewn middles as one stitch (18)
(I hope everyone understands what I mean, if you don´t get it just do 1sc in each, the result won´t be much different)
R2:Ch1, 1sc in each st, slst to join (18)
R3: Ch 1, ca. 4 sc, 1 inc, 8sc, inc, 4sc, sl st to join (20)
(if you have started in another spot: increases have to be on the sides)
R4: *sc,inc* slst to join (30)
R5-R7: Ch1, 1sc in each st, slst to join (30)
R8: Ch1, *sc,dec*, slst to join (20)
R9: Ch1, *sc,dec* slst to join (14)
R10: Ch1, *sc,sc,dec*, slst to join (12)
(Don´t cut yarn, just carry on with body)

Body:

R1: Ch1, inc each st, sl st to join (24)
R2: Ch1, 1sc in each st, sl st to join (24)
R3: Ch1, *sc,sc,inc*, sl st to join (32)
R4-R6: Ch1, 1sc in each stch, slst to join (32)
This time you´ll have to cut the yarn and weave in the ends. Stuff this part with fibre fill, yarn…, I will put the yellow inside of a Kinder egg filled with a little rice in the belly to make it a rattle for my son.)
R7: Now we´ll create a hole to attach the tail later. Decide which side should be Yoshis back and find it´s middle. Skip 2 middle stches and pick up yarn.
Ch1, 1sc in each, turn (30) (there should be a gap of 2 stches in the middle)
R8: Ch1, 1dec first two stches, *1sc in each* , 1dec in last 2 stches, turn (28)
R9: Ch1, 1dec first two stches, *1sc in each* , 1dec in last 2 stches, turn (26)
R10: Ch1, inc in first st, *sc,sc,dec*, inc in last st., turn (20)
R11: Ch1, inc in first st, *sc,sc,dec*, inc in last st., turn (16)
R12: Ch1, inc in first st, *sc,sc,dec*, inc in last st., slst to join with other side (16)
(you should now have a hole in the back and be able to crochet in rounds again)
R13: Ch1, *sc,dec*, sl st to join (11)
R14: pick up 1 lp through every stch, pull yarn through all, cut yarn and weave in ends (so much for not-much weaving huh)

Tail:

Now you need to hold Yoshi upright and find the upper middle of the hole.(basically the upper side of the tail) I didn`t count doing this part.
R1: Pick up yarn through middle stch,
Ch 1, 1sc in each stch, slst to join
R2: Ch1, skip joining stch, 1sc in each stch, slst to join
R3: Ch1, 1sc in each st to middle, 1sc  each st, 1 dec in middle, 1sc each till end of round, slst to join
R4: Ch1, *1sc in each st*, 1 dec at end of round, sl st to join
R5: Ch1, 1sc in each st to middle, 1inc in middle, 1sc in each st to end, 1 dec at end
R6: Ch1, 1sc in each st to middle, 1inc in middle, 1sc in each st to end, 1 dec at end
R7: Ch1, 1sc in each st to middle, 1inc in middle, 1sc in each st to end, 1 dec at end
R8: Ch1, 1sc in each st to middle, 1inc in middle, 1sc in each st to end, 1 dec at end
R9: Ch1, 1sc in each st to middle, 1inc in middle, 1sc in each st to end, 1 dec at end
R10: Ch1; *dec every st.*, sl st to join
R11: pick up one loop through every st. pull yarn through all, cut yarn and weave in ends.
Now the main part is finished.

Nose:
Start with Magic Circle, 6 sc, slst to join (6)
R1: Ch1, *inc every st*, sl st to join (12)
R2: Ch1, *inc 2nd st*, slst to join (16)
R3: Ch1, *inc 3rd st*, slst to join (20)

R4: Ch1, *inc 4th st.*, slst to join (24)
R5-9 Ch 1, *1sc in each st*, slst to join (24)
R10-11: Ch 1 *dec 4th st* slst to join
Cut yarn, weave-in ends and attach to face.

Cheeks:

Using white yarn
Magic circle, 6sc, slst to join (6)
R1: Ch1, *sc,inc* sl st to join (9)
R2: Ch1, *sc,sc,inc*, slst to join (12)
Create 2 Cheeks and attach them to face.

Belly:

Using white yarn
Ch4
R1: Ch2, *1sc in each st*, turn (4)
R2: Ch2, inc, sc, sc, inc, turn (6)
R3: Ch2, *1sc in each st*, turn (6)
R4: Ch2, *1sc in each st*, turn (6)
R5: Ch2, *1sc in each st*, turn (6)
R6: Ch2, inc, 1sc in next 4 stches, inc, turn (8)
R7: Ch2, *1sc in each st*, turn (8)
R8: Ch2, dec, 1sc in next 4 st, dec , turn(6)
R9: Ch2, *1sc in each st*, turn (6)
R10: Ch2, 1 sc in next 2 st, dec, 1sc in next 2 st, turn (5)
R11-R15: Ch2, *1sc in each st*, turn (5)
cut, sew in ends, attach to body (R1 is attached to chin, R15 is attached to beginning of tail).

Boots:

Using yellow yarn for the sole:
Ch 3
R1: Ch1, 1 sc in next 2 st, 5hdcc in last stch of chain, 1sc in next st at other side, 2sc in next st, sl st. to join. (10)
R2: Ch2, 1 sc in next 3 st., 2hdc in next 3 st. (front middle), 1sc in next 3st, 2 sc in last 2 st. , slst to join (15)
Cut yarn and sew in ends.
switch to brown for the upper part of boots:
Find middle of smaller side of sole (heel), pick up yarn through 1 st
R1: (only crochet through the inner loop of stiches)
Ch2, *1sc in each st*,inc last st, sl st to join (16)
R2: Find front middle, count 4 st to both sides and mark 4th st on each side.
Ch2, 1 sc in each st through both loops to marked st,
crochet only through back loop between marks
1hdc, dc 6 together., 1hdc (3 between marks)
after 2nd mark 1sc in each st, sl st to join round. (11)
R3: Ch2, *1sc in each st*, sl st. to join  (crochet through left and right of front middle)(12)
R4: Ch2, *1sc in each st*, sl st. to join (12)
R5: Ch2, crochet through outer loop  *1hdc in each st*, do not join, cut yarn and sew in ends. (12)
The legs will be started crocheting through the inner loops.

Legs:

Change to green yarn
Take one boot and start at back middle, picking up yarn through one st.
R1: Ch2, dec, 1sc in next 4 st, dec, 1sc in next 4st, slst to join (10)
R2: Ch2, *1sc in each st*, sl st to join (10)
R3: Ch2, dec, 1sc in each st to front middle, 2 inc, 1sc in each st to end, slst to join (11)
R4: find front middle, mark 3 middle st,
Ch2, dec, 1sc in each till first mark, 1 inc in every st till 2nd mark (6 betw. marks),1sc in each st till end, slst to join (13)
R5: repeat R4 , increasing 4 stitches in front middle (16)
R6: Now we´ll create a hole on the inner side of the leg (be careful with the sides, otherwise you´ll have two same legs)
Find the middle of inner side of leg and count two stitches to the left and to the right and mark (4 betw. marks)
Ch2, sc to first mark, 4 slst between marks, 1sc in each st to first mark, turn (12)
R7: find middle of outter side, mark 1 st, find middle front, mark 4 middle st
Ch2, 1sc in each st to first mark, 1 dec in marked st, 1 sc in each st to 2nd mark, 2 dec in middle stitches (2 between marks), 1 sc in each st till end, turn (9)
R8: Ch2 *sc,dec*, turn (6)
R9: Ch2, *sc,dec*, turn(4)
R10: 2dec, slst through other side of row, cut yarn and sew in ends.
Stiff legs through hole
Attach legs to body in desired position (standing, sitting, running)

Arms:
Using green yarn

Magic circle, 6sc
R1: Ch1, 1sc in next 2 st, inc, 1sc in next 2st, inc, slst to join (8)
R2: Ch1, 1sc in next 3st, inc, 1sc in next 3st, inc, slst to join (10)
R3: Ch1, *1sc in each st*, slst to join (10)
Now we are going to create a little thumb. You simply do a Ch 3 from the slst.
R4: 3sc in Ch3 for thumb, then just continue with round
*1sc in each st*, 3sc on other side of chain in thumb. (10 in round, 6 in thumb)
R5: now “sew” the thumb rows together by slip stitching through the opposite stchs.
=3slst.
Now the thumb is finished, now you only crochet through the 10stchs of the former round again.
1sc in next 4st, dec, 1sc in next 4st, slst to join (9)
R6: Ch1, 1sc in next 3st, dec, 1sc in next 4st, slst to join (8)
R7: Ch1, *1sc in each st*, slst to join (8)
R8: Ch1, *1sc in each st*, slst to join (8)

Now we are going to create a hole for the arms to be stiffed and to be sewn to the body. Again be careful on which side the hole needs to be.  (inner side)
R9: find middle of inner side, mark two middle stches
Ch1, 1sc in each until you reach mark, slst. through 2 marked stches, 1sc in each until you reach marked stches again, turn. (6)
R10: Ch1, *1sc in each st*, turn (6)
R11: Ch1, 1sc in next 2, dec, 1sc in next 2, turn (5)
R12: Ch1, dec, 1sc, dec , turn (3)
R13: Ch1, pick up yarn through each st, pull through all, cut yarn, sew in ends and attach arms to body

Saddle:

Using red yarn (I did it with brown yarn as I didn´t have red at home)
Start with Magic Circle, 6 sc, slst to join (6)
R1: Ch1, *inc every st*, sl st to join (12)
R2: Ch1, *inc every st*, slst to join (24)
R3: Ch1, *1sc in each st.*, slst to join (24)
break yarn and weave in ends
R4: Switch to white
Ch1 in any loop, 2 hdc in each st, slst to join
Use ends to attach to body.

Strange things on back of head:
Using red yarn

Divide head in two parts and search middles of these parts.
Pick up yarn in upper middle and do one dc
count two rows to the lower side of middle and slst. through one st
Do 5 dc through middle st
count two rows to upper side and slst. through one st.
Break yarn and weave in ends. Repeat on lower side of head.

Eyes:
I tried to stitch the eyes on felt and sewed them on the head but I´m not really content with the outcome. You can also just cut out the parts from felt and sew them to the head.








I hope you liked my pattern :)